Although I am used
to the cooling breezes that often come off the ocean when we visit the shore,
and I have often experienced the struggle to ride through those breezes across
the causeway back to the barrier islands, I figured that issue would only influence
the last few miles of my 91 mile journey from West Conshohocken to Stone
Harbor. Because prevailing winds generally go west to east, I expected to
mostly be able to take advantage of those conditions when I left on the morning
of June 24th.
I was disappointed
to find that, because of a malfunctioning railroad crossing gate, the access
point from the Schuylkill Trail to Race Street was closed. However, after
backtracking to the Art Museum area, I was happy to find an excellent
green-painted bike lane all the way down the Ben Franklin Parkway to where Race
Street intersected Logan Circle, and I wondered why Google Maps hadn’t
suggested this route in first place.
I suppose some
people are intimidated by cycling on city streets, but my crazy wife and I once
rode down 2nd Avenue in New York City, where there is no bike lane!
Surprisingly, the only thing that really bothered us were the unpredictable
pedestrians and whether they would pay attention to the crossing signals or
just jump out in front of us whenever they wanted. We even got into a rhythm
where we could roll slowly into intersections as the lights changed, keeping
our shoes in the clipless pedals, and out-sprint the traffic from block to
block.
I didn’t have that experience in
Philadelphia, as Race Street is a secondary street to most of the north-south
traffic, and I was caught at several extended red lights as I crossed the city
towards the Ben Franklin Bridge. I had a minor panic when I found the gate
locked to the pedestrian crossing on the south side of the bridge with some
signs about possible weather restrictions and other options to get across, but
my attention was drawn to the north walkway by a loud conversation among some
men heading to work, and fortunately that side was open!
To reach the other
side I had to duck under the bridge at 4th Street, which unfortunately was one
way. I quickly adopted the mind-set of “Hey, I am only going ONE WAY!”, and when I found a long break in traffic upon
reaching the intersection, I quickly sprinted against the grain to reach the
north side access point. I know I shouldn’t have done it, but I had a bit of a
bad attitude going at that point. The great views from atop the Ben Franklin
Bridge helped to improve my state of mind, and I somehow even managed to ignore
the buffeting wind.
Most of the walkway
had adequate width, but it seemed the original intent was for people from
Philadelphia to walk out halfway and turn around. Walkway construction on the
east end of the bridge seemed like an afterthought, where it tapered down to
barely enough room for two people walking shoulder to shoulder. Despite some
signs clearly asking cyclists to dismount for pedestrians, I factored in the
awkwardness of walking on the narrow surface in my cleats and the difficultly
of someone passing when I was standing next to my bike and decided to simply
cut down my speed to a walking pace.
When I happened to
encounter a pedestrian, I stopped and moved over as much as I could while
holding the fence/railing and let him by. The only other person I met was kind
enough to squeeze behind a bridge support and wave me by enthusiastically -
brotherly love for cyclists!
I will state
emphatically that Haddon and Mount Ephraim Avenues are two of the worst roads
on which I have ever ridden! The long red light at every block was bad enough,
but the roads had no shoulder to speak of, they were usually filled with trash
and/or cinders, and the MANY sections of broken cement and potholes were poorly
filled with sinking asphalt. It felt like an eternity trying to escape Camden’s
streets!
Black Horse Pike was
a major improvement, but I still looked forward to getting away from traffic
for a while. However, the inconsistent condition of the Blackwood Rail Trail
had me looking forward to getting back onto Black Horse Pike! There were
sections of the trail that were among the nicest on which I’ve ever ridden –
smooth, with nicely maintained plantings and freshly-cut lawns lining the
trail. Unfortunately, they were badly outnumbered by atrocious sections with
broken pavement caused by tree roots that honestly felt like I was riding over
that corrugated aluminum sheathing you see on shed roofs.
Another section of
about 25 yards or so was completely covered by debris from a recent clearing of
trailside vegetation. With my eyes having to adjust to going in and out of the
shade, I didn’t see a larger branch lying in front of me, and it exploded under
my front tire, sending pieces into my legs and up into my chin! Although it did
cause a sinking feeling in my stomach, I somehow escaped without any blood or
flat tires or bent spokes.
I was nearing the
30 mile mark, out of the trees and heading into the more rural areas. Now I was
really feeling the wind – directly out of the south, which is not conducive to
a pleasant ride south-southeast to the shore. The breeze was fairly steady at
around 5 mph with the occasional gust to 12-15, leg-sapping conditions I dealt
with during most of the ride!
Routes 655 and 47
were a cyclists dream with a wide shoulder and very few traffic lights. Route 655
had some pleasant scenery with a mix of farm and forest areas, but Route 47 all
the way past Millville was just commercial sprawl. In fact it reminded me a lot
of Route 1 anywhere near Philadelphia, Baltimore or Washington, with strip
malls galore. The difference was that most of the road was single lane and
there was the consistent presence of the extra wide shoulder, which was a
treat.
At about 65 miles,
although fatigue was starting to set in from the wind battle, I made the
planned “long route” split away from Route 347, which is remote and notoriously
dangerous. Later during the drive home I was especially glad I had made that
decision, despite the extra distance, when I witnessed a near head-on collision
from a car attempting to pass with nowhere near enough room to do so. I was
imagining riding my bike next to the cars that had to swerve into the shoulder
to avoid the idiot, and I know they wouldn’t have been looking for me in that situation!
There were actually
some stretches of Route 47 in this area that turned directly east, out of the
wind, which were supremely appreciated. I was nearly toast and seriously
considered calling Sue to head out towards Dennisville to pick me up. I fought
the temptation to quit, however, and since I was in more familiar segments of
the route, I used landmarks as short-term goals to finish off the ride.
Yes, the causeway had
the usual smack-in-the-face conditions, but I tucked aerodynamically as much as
my achy shoulders and neck would allow and was thrilled to cross the bridge
into downtown Stone Harbor. I still had the better part of thirty blocks out to the
Darley beach house on 120th Street, but that part of the adventure
was a blur.
It’s funny - the
number of times I said to myself “This is something I never have to do again”, the
heavy legs, stiff neck/shoulders and numb hands that had to be consistently
shaken out were completely forgotten a few days later, as I considered routes
that might be better “next time”. Insanity?
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