I grew up in the Lehigh Valley, and its namesake railroad had its
headquarters in my hometown of Bethlehem. I now live within a couple blocks
of the former Reading Railroad mainline. Both of these railroads were major transporters
of anthracite coal in the region.
The men above were photographed outside the Lehigh Valley Railroad station in Landsdowne, New
Jersey, in 1900 – incidentally, I’ve seen the town also spelled “Lansdowne” and
today spelled “Landsdown”. In any case, Landsdown is located where the Lehigh
Valley Railroad’s Clinton Branch split north from the mainline right in the
center of New Jersey’s Hunterdon County. The branch carried mostly passengers,
but some products, such as graphite and milled grains were moved down the
tracks.
Here is a photo of
the Landsdowne Station, which stood from 1875 to 1928:
The railroad right-of-way is now the attractive Landsdown Trail, just
under two miles long. Now you know that is nowhere near long enough to
create a worthwhile cycling experience for me, but Landsdown was also the location
where the Pittstown Branch diverged to the south. Pittstown is one of many
places around the world named for William Pitt, 1st Earl of Chatham, the great
British statesmen who is best known for leading Britain politically through the
Seven Years War.
The Pittstown Branch served the peach growing and peach basket
production industries that flourished in the area during the late 1800s. In
fact, Hunterdon County was once known as the “Peach Capital of the World”, just
another reason for New Jersey’s “Garden State” nickname. Unfortunately, a
blight known as the San Jose Scale moved into the region in the mid-1890s,
killing millions of peach trees in just a few years, and the industry moved to South
Jersey. The line continued to serve other agricultural businesses until the
1960s, particularly milk production.
The four-mile Coopalong Trail, named for the creek that it follows along
its winding route, now occupies the railroad right-of-way. Because it is not as
maintained as the Landsdown Trail, the Coopalong has its good and bad points. The
trail is a lot more “reclaimed by nature”, so I encountered far fewer users. Much
of the route is dirt single-track, which can be smooth and fast, but the path
isn’t consistent.
There were some sections where tree roots were exposed and others were
the soil washed away and the trail was fairly rocky. The shade was quite welcome
on a hot summer day, but that made it even more treacherous, as my eyes
couldn’t adjust quickly enough in the dappled sunlight and I couldn’t spot the
obstacles very well. Though there were a couple moments I hit objects and
feared a pinch flat was imminent, I survived on my rigid Bianchi frame and 30mm
tires, but I think a mountain bike with fatter tires and some cushy suspension
would have been more appropriate.
A shot of one of the more relaxing sections of the Coopalong Trail |
Low spots were muddy, and some were filled with crushed stone or
sand, making the going just plain sluggish. In other instances, it seemed
riders tried to create a “high line” to one side or the other of the deep
groove, but the path is so narrow this just created more danger, since having
one wheel slide off into the mushy low path and losing control became a
concern.
I got through it all in one piece, only having to dismount a couple
times for downed trees, but I was really happy to take on the road portion of
my planned route for the day. Near the Pittstown terminus I spotted the former
Lehigh Valley station that folks are trying to preserve to some degree with
tarps on the roof.
I turned right onto Pittstown Road and angled northwest from the small
town center onto Bloomsbury Road. I was not disappointed to find it to be the
first of a handful of unmarked roads - a New Jersey staple - along my route. It
seems the state has the attitude that with major roads you should already know
where you are and only signs for small cross roads are provided. I know I’ve
mentioned this before, but what if you are coming off of the smaller road onto
the major one and don’t know which road it is? Luckily, I have learned my
lesson and planned accordingly, plotting my route to as many T-intersections as
possible, in order to eliminate any confusion.
Bloomsbury Road was a slow, uphill drag as I was climbing up to an
eventual plateau 300 feet above Clinton and the valley surrounding nearby
Spruce Run Reservoir, where I often used to sail our family’s Sunfish boat when
I was kid. Mt. Salem Road was a bit misnamed, as it really wasn’t a mountain –
it was more of a stepped pair of crazy-steep short hills, the punchy kind of
climbs I masochistically enjoy. Once at the top there was a pleasant spell of
fairly flat to slightly downhill riding on roads skirting the Alexandria Field
Airport toward tiny Everittstown.
Palmyra Corner Road was another nasty uphill drag, and at the
appropriately-named Oak Summit Road, I was again pedaling along more relaxing
terrain as I weaved over to meet Pittstown Road once again. It was a very calm
day, and I was flying along a really nice, fairly new road surface, then turned
east onto Oak Grove Road that had one of those really old surfaces that is so
worn smooth it is almost shiny – super fast to ride on!
I zigzagged over to Croton Road and headed north, enjoying the flat, but
wondering when the downhill was going to begin. Shortly after turning east at
Quakertown, there was a sharp downhill right into a steep climb, then the fun
really began with the decent on Sydney Road. There was a bit of nasty uphill
lump in the middle to really interrupt the enjoyable coasting-fest, but the
view of the valley below made the effort worth it.
I had to be very careful to feather the brakes and not “overcook” the
turn onto Sydney School Road, then some impatient female driver felt she had to
honk her horn at me as she passed, not that there was enough room or any other
traffic to contend with out here in the middle of nowhere. The really stupid
thing was that, with her SUV, she couldn’t corner anywhere as quickly as I
could on the windy Pine Hill Road, and I was only a few yards behind her when we
reached a bridge at the bottom.
I assumed she did it just to bother me, but she crawled across the span
at an unnecessarily slow speed, and I couldn't resist yelling out, “You were in
such a hurry, blowing by me before.” Oh boy, I've provoked a yapper...”What’s you’re problem?”
I rolled slowly by and replied, not even making eye contact, “Honking at cyclists isn’t
necessary – we know we are sharing the road with cars. The only thing you
accomplish is startling someone and maybe causing them to swerve.”
She grumbled something which I couldn’t hear, then sharply hit the gas
to spit gravel under her tires, I guess the intent was to be threatening, like she was going to
run me down, but I was already several yards past and didn’t even acknowledge
her actions. I accelerated away quickly and didn’t see her again.
From this annoying moment it was just a couple of mostly downhill miles on
Hamden/Leigh Road back to Main Street in Clinton. I laughed when I saw the sign
there marked as Route 173, knowing this is also known as Old Route 22, Main
Street and, in just a couple of blocks, would become Pittstown Road. Sure, New
Jersey, you put a sign here?
The shop has been plenty busy again with client build projects, which I'll touch on in upcoming weeks, but I finished up yet another bicycle that is different from the vintage racing machines on which I usually work. My friend Julius is living in Philadelphia and found an inexpensive, unbranded fixed-gear bike. He asked me to change the rear cog to one with a freewheel and to add some brakes, which ended up being a little more complicated than I thought it would.
First of all the rear brake bridge wasn't drilled for mounting calipers. Luckily there was a vent hole on the back side of the small steel tube at that location, so I could center a bit for metal drilling on that mark and create a caliper mount. I used washers that were curved on one side to provide a flat surface on which to bolt the rear brake.
Fixed gear bicycles sometimes have a front brake for safety, and the fork was drilled for a caliper mount with a recessed nut. My new rear mount was going to require a flush nut mount, which made for a long search to find individual brake calipers that matched up well.
Besides having to head over to Bikesport to borrow the special tool to remove the fixed cog, the only other minor complication was to add some old school top tube clips to route the rear brake housing. I'll sign off this week with a few photos of Julius' ride:
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