On Sunday Sue and I headed off on a 53 mile ride
that was a bit different, combining a large amount of both road and trail
riding through four different counties of New York and New Jersey. Starting in
Ft. Lee (Bergen County), NJ, we crossed over the George Washington Bridge into Manhattan
(New York County), then made our way through the Bronx and finally Westchester.
Much of the planned route was inspired by
well-known blogger and author Eben Weiss, alias Bike Snob NYC, who had written
a March guest article for The Brooks Blog
(sponsored by the famous leather bicycle saddle manufacturer). Eben
highlighted portions of one of his regular rides, and using his description and
photos, I was able to piece together the course he had taken and linked it up with
our planned starting point at the G.W.B.
Our trip started off with the unfortunate discovery
that our favorite free parking spot at Ft. Lee Historic Park now had numbered
spaces and pay kiosks. At first I thought, “What a stupid thing to do, if you
are trying to encourage people not to drive into the city.” Then it occurred to
me that New Jersey wouldn’t care about cars in NYC, and is just trying to make
money.
I’ve been across the bridge maybe a dozen
times, and it never fails to deliver exhilaration with its expansive views of
the New York skyline, the Hudson River and the rocky Palisade to the west. The
great feeling is dampened somewhat as you make your way down the steep,
spiraling access ramp on the east end, and the thought crosses your mind of having
to face the return trip up this nasty
climb with the fatigue of the day’s ride in your legs.
We’ve never been intimidated by the traffic
of city riding, with or without bike lanes, as the pedestrians always seem to
be the big problem, since they rarely pay attention to crossing signals or
traffic lights. Add in the distraction of cell phones and other electronic
devices people are using when strolling across intersections, and it seems
amazing that cars are the first thing mentioned when I hear complaints from
bicycle commuters!
Down to the Hudson River Greenway we went,
and despite some rather obscure markings along the path, we found our way up a
short and very steep approach and some steps to the Henry Hudson Bridge over
Spuyten Duyvil (Spouting Devil in Dutch) Creek. As we descended near the intersection
of the Henry Hudson Parkway East and Independence Avenue, two young women asked
if I knew how to get to Van Cortlandlt Park.
“We happen to be riding right through the
park,” I replied. “Why don’t you just ride with us, instead of me trying to
explain directions?” So for about the next two miles we had some slow company,
but since weaving our way through the crooked streets in this section of the
city and down through Manhattan College was rather complicated, I was glad to
have plenty of time to check the cue sheet I had attached to my stem to make
sure we were always headed in the correct direction.
The ride through the park on the Old Putnam
Trail was a bit of low point for Sue and I on this trip. Abandoned in 1958,
this right-of-way was part of the Putnam division of the New York Central Railroad,
and I don’t think a whole lot went into the planning of its conversion to
public usage. The natural dirt trail surface was uneven, poorly maintained, and
in some bad drainage areas large railroad ballast-sized rock had been dumped –
definitely not a bicycle-friendly surface!
The trail was also barely wide enough for bicycles
to be ridden in each direction, and railroad ties were still set in the ground
on the right-hand side (traveling north), making the situation extremely hazardous
for anyone swerving to avoid a collision. Crowds of families with little care
about the courtesy of sharing of the pathway didn’t help matters much, either.
When are people going to learn to pull completely off of the trail when they
stop to take a drink or make that all-important (extreme sarcasm implied) check of their phones?
A
little over a mile later, we were treated to the Westchester County line and the
start the wonderful, wide-paved South County Trailway, and although we still
faced plenty of “people pylons”, at least there was adequate room to weave
around them. Sue complained about feeling sluggish, and I pointed out that the
trail was gradually climbing nearly 300 feet along its 15 miles up around the Pocantico
Hills. There was a small disconnected section of the Trailway at the village of
Elmsford where some on-street riding is required, and we took that opportunity
to fill our bottles at a local shop.
Although it eventually connects to the
22-mile North County Trailway, we exited the South County portion to take
Sleepy Hollow Road through the Rockefeller State Park Preserve. There was some
beautiful scenery as we wound through forests and horse farms. Just outside
downtown Sleepy Hollow, we swung off near the high school to reach the Old
Croton Aqueduct Trail, which I will refer to in the future as the OCA.
The aquaduct once carried water from the
Croton River down to Manhattan reservoirs, but I’ll leave you to read up on its
history, as this blog entry will be long enough on its own. The OCA is actually
a State Historic Park, but much of its route crosses private land, so we found
ourselves feeling a bit uncomfortable as we followed this winding single-track
through backyards, across front lawns and between gardens of the Tarrytown
area.
If you click on the photo to enlarge, you can better make out the OCA path. |
We saw many remnants of the aqueduct’s
infrastructure, such as weir chambers and shaft/gatehouses. The most prominent
features were the numerous stone ventilator columns that we passed along the
way.
Weir Chamber |
Ventilator |
The northern part of the OCA was generally
well-marked with neat green wooden posts with carved lettering painted in
white. The quality of the road crossings, however, ranged from passible to
God-awful, as most had poor sightlines for cyclists or the intersecting
traffic. The surface in these areas had uneven curbs, broken asphalt, eroded
holes or some combination of all three. We came away feeling that this trail was
a wonderful resource with so much potential, and it just felt like it was being
left to waste away.
The strange thing was that the best riding
was in the sections that had no maintenance, where hard packed dirt provided a
smooth, fast surface. One particularly enjoyable area was within the grounds of
the Lyndhurst Mansion, which was once the residence of railroad magnate Jay
Gould.
Wider areas that had one time been resurfaced
with sand or crushed gravel, were worn away from heavy use, leaving large rocks
and tree roots exposed. The constant light change while cycling from sun into
shade and back, plus the patterns of the light through the leaves made spotting
these hazards difficult. I recall a couple moments of cursing (I won’t say who),
and I once had the bars jolted from my fingers – luckily I didn’t hit anything
else while maintaining my no-hands balance.
We eventually worked our way back to Yonkers
and made a turn east, where we faced a wicked little hill up Ashburton Avenue.
A good-natured fellow in a pickup truck yelled to us, “You should be in Rio!” (Olympics site that year). We half-heartedly shouted back our thanks, then veered right and down into a
miserable segment of the OCA that was littered with refuse of all imaginable varieties.
Shortly after doing a little climb out of this hole, back up to Yonkers Avenue,
Sue said to me, “I think I just got hepatitis on that part of the trail!”
We rejoined the OCA off Midland Road, right
alongside Tibbetts Brook Park, but in hindsight, we probably should have just
stayed on pavement. I’ll admit that my “enjoyable ride time” was just about up –
after all, I have ridden the 80 miles to the shore in shorter time than this trip
was taking. The trail markings became confusing, and the convoluted route that
the OCA took, made necessary by highway development, added unnecessary distance
to the total we had to ride.
There was also a point where we could have
diverted to a paved route towards the Van Cortlandt Golf Clubhouse instead of
following the OCA, but at the time I wasn’t sure where that was going to put
us, in relation to the planned return route to reach the G.W.B. We wanted to
take a more gradual climb up to the bridge, not retrace our outbound course and
take on some of the steep hills involved that way.
The OCA unceremoniously dumped us at an
awkward intersection that really had to be crossed on foot, and we made our way
down Dickinson and Goulden Avenues alongside the Jerome Park Reservoir. From
there it was an interesting ride down University Avenue through “The Heights”
to reach the Washington Bridge over the Harlem River.
I still had enough in my legs to have a little
race with a dude on a power assist bike up the last incline on 181ST Street to Fort Washington Avenue and the connection to the G.W.B. The surprised
rider laughed as I pulled up along his back wheel, and I didn’t bother telling
him that I had about 50 miles in my legs already.
Sue was definitely not amused by any of the
remaining hills but was quite happy to find that the Ft. Lee parking area was
not patrolled regularly on Sundays. We were behind schedule by a couple hours
and, with our current run of luck, had been pretty sure we were going to find a
ticket on our windshield. Maybe the cycling gods were taking pity on us!
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