Friday, August 10, 2018

Maritime Canada, Part 6 - Harbourville, Nova Scotia, to Corran Ban, Prince Edward Island

Sunset with Isle Haute, taken by Sue
   I wanted to get in one more ride before we left the Bay of Fundy area, and since I felt a bit let down by my failed attempt to get over the big ridge (which I learned is called North Mountain) from the Annapolis Valley side, I challenged myself to try again. This time I chose to take Long Point Road, which had a more consistent grade than Route 360, as Sue and I had noticed when returning from our ice cream reward a couple of days earlier.
   I also wanted to explore a bit more of the area to the south of Harbourville, so I started off that direction, heading out some unpaved roads toward Victoria Harbour. The route had plenty of rolling hills to take the steam out of a rider’s legs, and I was sure to pace myself with the long climb up the bayside of the ridge still on the menu, let alone the “big hill”.
   The road out of Victoria Harbour was nicely paved, considering how many of the area surfaces are weather-beaten, and a consistent wind was at my back to help lessen the effort a bit. Over the top of the ridge the road followed a much straighter path than any of the other parallel routes leading down into the valley, and I was able to coast down at a pretty high speed without having to brake too much. I am a bit more cautious than I would have been, say, twenty years ago, but with smooth paving and good sightlines, it is still great fun to just tuck and go!
   Not many streets in, out or through the Annapolis Valley are very flat. After I made the left-hand turn on Route 221, I faced a constant series of small hills up and down, crossing small bridges over streams that irrigate the fertile valley which supports a diverse agricultural industry including fruit trees, berries, livestock and wineries.
   Long Point Road greeted me with a steep start, but nothing like that of Route 360, as I was able to keep my breathing under control and also my legs from completely blowing up. I don’t usually like to climb out of the saddle, since I tend to accelerate and lose a consistent cadence, but a couple of times I stood up just to change position and concentrated on keeping smooth.
   There certainly isn’t anything like North Mountain to practice on around Royersford, so while putting out this type of 10-15-minute effort, I was thinking of it more as a time trial, just holding the tempo as long as possible. I knew the rest of the ride was pretty much downhill, so I really didn’t have to save anything for the run back to the house.
   I was really surprised at how good I felt near the top and decided to cut across the ridge on Brow of the Mountain Road, just to add some miles to the ride and work some of the fatigue out of my legs. I took a photo of the wonderful view down to the Annapolis Valley.

   My intent was to again spare myself the nasty climb out of Harbourville’s marina, so I cut across Barley Street back to Long Point Road and enjoyed racing down that long gradual slope back to the house. 

   It was sad to leave the Bay of Fundy area the next morning after such a peaceful stay, and although I like to have access to information and contact with the outside world through the internet, I can’t say I missed it totally. Taking a “tech break” was kinda nice, and think I appreciated the ‘net hiatus even more when I had to catch up on emails later!
   Our final stop on this travel day was to be Prince Edward Island, but we had a few interesting places to visit along the way, including Burncoat Head Park, which has the world’s most extreme range of tides at 53.6 feet! We arrived at low tide so that we could walk out on the Minas Basin floor – it was amazing to think that in a few hours, if we were still standing in the same spot, we would essentially be under over forty feet of water.


   The next destination was South Maitland, where a tidal bore, which is a large wave caused by a flood tide funneling into a long, narrow and shallow inlet, forms on the Shubenacadie River. Unfortunately, other than spotting a few bald eagles, the experience really ended up more of a BORE, as the river was running rather dry, and a strong outflow would have made the scene much more dramatic with a larger wave. It still was pretty interesting to see the slow, northerly-flowing river that was meandering through sandbars toward the basin, turn in a matter of minutes into a churning, southerly flowing river.



   We felt bad for the folks who had paid for the “whitewater” (brown, really) rafting experience, as the guides had to make their own fun zigzagging in and out of the rapids of rather measly size. The passengers didn’t seem overly disappointed as they whooped it up when flying past us.




   Early in the evening we reached the Confederation Bridge, which is an eight-mile structure linking the province of Prince Edward Island with mainland New Brunswick, Canada. At the visitor center we watched a fascinating feature on the construction of the multi-span balanced cantilever bridge, as the often-frozen water of Northumbrian Strait had to be considered during its design. I’ll leave you to investigate, if you are interested.


   We were staying in a modern, pre-fab wooden cabin in Corran Ban, not far from Tracadie Bay on the island’s north side. The first settlers in Corran Ban were from Moidart, Scotland. When the fresh water of Winter Bay meets the salt water of Tracadie, it forms white foam, shaped like a sickle. Corran Ban is Gaelic for “white sickle”.

    Prince Edward Island has a reputation as a cycling paradise, mainly on the strength of the 292-mile Confederation Trail system, which has two main branches stretching almost the whole west to east length and north to south width of the island. The province has worked to build spurs to connect most of PEI’s larger communities to the main branches and has additional routes planned or under construction.
   The trail system is built mostly upon the roadbed of the former Prince Edward Island Railway, which was operated later by the Canadian National Railway. The railroad saw boom times during WWII, but with the competition of trucks, saw a sharp decline. Canadian National had removed most trackage during the early 1990s, and completion of the Confederation Bridge in 1997 eliminated any need to float freight cars over to the island on barges. The abandoned railroad lines were sold to the provincial government for development.
   The trail and bridge are named in honor of the 1864 conference in Charlottetown, PEI, to discuss the British Confederation of Canada (at the time, consisting of Quebec and Ontario) with Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. Ironically, Prince Edward Island’s main reason for joining the Confederation three years later was bankruptcy, mostly brought upon by the costs of building the railroad!

   Tomorrow afternoon, Sue and I will take a ride east on the trail from the town of Mt. Stewart toward St. Peters Bay.



No comments :

Post a Comment